Cabbage, Tradition and Bunce

Marion Donaldson and the Black Economy of the British Rag Trade in the 1970s

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

Abstract

This article explores illicit aspects of the British rag trade in the 1970s through examination of so-called ‘cabbage’, a fundamental but hitherto obscure pillar of the hidden economy in British fashion production. Through analysis of oral, legal, and material sources it examines the ways in which the fashion company Marion Donaldson encountered ‘cabbage’, and how it negotiated with this as an integral part of doing business in the British rag trade. Hidden economies in ‘illegal but bona fide’ cultures of production and consumption are thus highlighted as a way of enriching our understanding of the complexities of the post-war British fashion business.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)187-205
Number of pages19
JournalTextile History
Volume50
Issue number2
Early online date9 Sep 2019
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 9 Sep 2019

Fingerprint

Industry
Economy
1970s
Rag
Hidden economy
Legal Sources
Fundamental
Integral

Cite this

@article{6ef6f7b0868e44e8bdcf8820128c7db4,
title = "Cabbage, Tradition and Bunce: Marion Donaldson and the Black Economy of the British Rag Trade in the 1970s",
abstract = "This article explores illicit aspects of the British rag trade in the 1970s through examination of so-called ‘cabbage’, a fundamental but hitherto obscure pillar of the hidden economy in British fashion production. Through analysis of oral, legal, and material sources it examines the ways in which the fashion company Marion Donaldson encountered ‘cabbage’, and how it negotiated with this as an integral part of doing business in the British rag trade. Hidden economies in ‘illegal but bona fide’ cultures of production and consumption are thus highlighted as a way of enriching our understanding of the complexities of the post-war British fashion business.",
keywords = "fashion history, rag trade, Marion Donaldson, fashion industry, cabbage, black economy",
author = "Jade Halbert",
year = "2019",
month = "9",
day = "9",
doi = "10.1080/00404969.2019.1652134",
language = "English",
volume = "50",
pages = "187--205",
journal = "Textile History",
issn = "0040-4969",
publisher = "Maney Publishing",
number = "2",

}

Cabbage, Tradition and Bunce : Marion Donaldson and the Black Economy of the British Rag Trade in the 1970s. / Halbert, Jade.

In: Textile History, Vol. 50, No. 2, 09.09.2019, p. 187-205.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticle

TY - JOUR

T1 - Cabbage, Tradition and Bunce

T2 - Marion Donaldson and the Black Economy of the British Rag Trade in the 1970s

AU - Halbert, Jade

PY - 2019/9/9

Y1 - 2019/9/9

N2 - This article explores illicit aspects of the British rag trade in the 1970s through examination of so-called ‘cabbage’, a fundamental but hitherto obscure pillar of the hidden economy in British fashion production. Through analysis of oral, legal, and material sources it examines the ways in which the fashion company Marion Donaldson encountered ‘cabbage’, and how it negotiated with this as an integral part of doing business in the British rag trade. Hidden economies in ‘illegal but bona fide’ cultures of production and consumption are thus highlighted as a way of enriching our understanding of the complexities of the post-war British fashion business.

AB - This article explores illicit aspects of the British rag trade in the 1970s through examination of so-called ‘cabbage’, a fundamental but hitherto obscure pillar of the hidden economy in British fashion production. Through analysis of oral, legal, and material sources it examines the ways in which the fashion company Marion Donaldson encountered ‘cabbage’, and how it negotiated with this as an integral part of doing business in the British rag trade. Hidden economies in ‘illegal but bona fide’ cultures of production and consumption are thus highlighted as a way of enriching our understanding of the complexities of the post-war British fashion business.

KW - fashion history

KW - rag trade

KW - Marion Donaldson

KW - fashion industry

KW - cabbage

KW - black economy

UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85073990617&partnerID=8YFLogxK

U2 - 10.1080/00404969.2019.1652134

DO - 10.1080/00404969.2019.1652134

M3 - Article

VL - 50

SP - 187

EP - 205

JO - Textile History

JF - Textile History

SN - 0040-4969

IS - 2

ER -