Second Skin
: An investigation into the production of contoured patterns via mould making.

Student thesis: Master's Thesis

Abstract

This research will investigate pattern-cutting via mould making techniques for body conscious, contoured clothing for the costume industry. Through my considerable experience as a costume maker, I have recognised a gap in knowledge and documentation for this pattern cutting technique. Previous experiments revealed ways to create body distorting and contoured shapes by wrapping the body, marking up seam lines and cutting through to create accurate patterns. This method also allows for a diversity of abstract seams and manipulation of the body.
The research seeks to expand and explore these approaches through a series of three-dimensional experiments, which include contouring the body and other forms with moulds to achieve abstract and sculptural form.
The aims of these experiments are:
1. To explore the capabilities, advantages and restrictions of the technique.
2. To develop a teaching aid that allows students to translate the three dimensional form into a two dimensional pattern. A format that initiates the exploration of the relationship between traditional pattern pieces and the body
3. To expand the range of documented techniques available for costume students and professionals, allowing practitioners to draw complex style lines directly onto the body shape and inanimate objects.
The research will incorporate a variety of methodologies, which investigate technical, pedagogical and historical approaches to contoured pattern cutting. Object based research will consider the design and manufacture of body conscious garments. Action based research and semi-structured interviews with practitioners and tutors will contemplate the skills costume makers utilise to produce contoured clothing and the ethics connected with drawing styles directly onto the body. In order to contextualise the practical investigations, an extensive literature review will highlight contemporary and historical research into contoured clothing.

Date of Award8 Dec 2014
Original languageEnglish
SupervisorAndrew Hewitt (Main Supervisor), Karen Shah (Co-Supervisor) & Steve Swindells (Co-Supervisor)

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