The Investigation of Bespoke Pattern Drafting Techniques for African Plus-size Women in the United Kingdom and Ireland

  • Ivie Liberty

Student thesis: Doctoral Thesis

Abstract

This thesis will investigate garment construction for African plus-size women and address the reoccurring utilisation of outdated pattern drafting techniques and anthropometric data for sizing and garment construction within the fashion industry. As a result of this ancient practice in the clothing industry, plus-size women, specifically African plus-size women, have been significantly impacted by garment fit and size issues. There is currently no evidence of globally recognised sizing systems based on African women's anthropometric data in womenswear. Research shows that the current sizing system for African women is based on anthropometric data in the United Kingdom and the United States. The fashion industry has overlooked the knowledge of diverse body shapes and sizes, the lack of this knowledge limits a whole demographic garment needs and significantly impacts the fit and size of womenswear. This research aim is to investigate the practical and theoretical application of different pattern drafting techniques for creating a bespoke bodice garment for African plus-size women, using individual body measurements to solve the problems with fit and size among African plus-size women. The methodological approach taken in this study is based on a mixed method approach of qualitative and quantitative data. Ten plus-size African women in the diaspora based in the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland were used as research participants, and the recruitment procedure was a snowballing, judgement and opportunistic sampling approach. An experimental and exploratory study based on practice-based research design was used to investigate four pattern drafting techniques used in upper-body garment construction. Results from this study indicate a lack of diverse drafting techniques used for upper-garment construction for African plus-size women body shapes and a significant need for updates on pattern drafting techniques used in the fashion industry. This research is original as it significantly impacts the bespoke manufacturing sector in the fashion industry and African plus-size women consumer. It achieves this by providing an intense practical advancement in pattern-cutting methods which will positively impact the drafting techniques used in plus-size womenswear garment construction with size and fit. Furthermore, the findings of this study indicate valuable insights about African plus-size women consumers' body shape, a niche in plus-size womenswear for designers and manufacturers.
Date of Award6 Jun 2025
Original languageEnglish
SupervisorClaire Barber (Main Supervisor) & Rowan Bailey (Co-Supervisor)

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