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Walking beyond the loom
: Creating a new set of principles to revitalise the craft of handwoven leno

  • Nicola Redmore

Student thesis: Doctoral Thesis

Abstract

The loom as tool for research is central to this study where the weaver as actor considers the embodied rhythm of weaving and appraises the risk and reward of new thinking developed through a walking methodology. This study constructs a new framework to reanimate handwoven leno beyond its current use in geotextiles and explores the potential for weave to embody engagement with a moorland landscape. Using a practice-based enquiry to articulate the intuitive processes that take the textile designer from initial idea to the final design, this research explores a non-linear road map of textile development. Laying down a textile framework that informs both material and structural composition, direct relationships between the site and the space of fabrication are developed using methods of walking, drawing, video, photography, and weaving. Opportunity to craft an alternative approach to record the weave design process is explored in reference to established notation systems and investigates practices used in other disciplines. This study aspires to create a new set of principles and revitalize the craft and technical notation system for leno hand weaving. It evaluates the potential of weave archives as a starting point for innovation and asks how complex leno woven structures could be better communicated to a new audience. Moving the space of contemplation out of the studio and onto the Pennine moors of West Yorkshire presents an opportunity to develop new methodologies and explore novel approaches and new knowledge for textile practitioners. A walking methodology is developed in reference to the auto-ethnographic practices employed in psychogeography, land-art, and by artists and weavers who walk or respond to movement in their work. Walking, employed as a solo activity, echoes the embodied weaving process, and repeat visits to the research location parallel the repetitive yet varied actions of the weavers' shuttle across a loom. Layers of engagement and direct links between the site and the space of fabrication are explored and mapped out through the inherent pliability of leno weaving. The outcome of this research offers an enhanced ‘technical file’ as an effective tool to disseminate the benefits of reanimating leno woven textile design. It articulates and makes visible complex and interlinked creative processes of the weave designer and uses walking to energize and liberate textile thinking beyond the studio. An extended period of engagement with the landscape captures a slow personal evolution through creative practice from textile designer to academic and weave practitioner. By developing a novel approach to technical notation, leno weaving is elevated to a new status in craft and design and stimulates interest for future student's practitioners of weave.
Date of Award9 Jul 2025
Original languageEnglish
SupervisorClaire Barber (Main Supervisor), Nic Clear (Co-Supervisor) & Rowan Bailey (Co-Supervisor)

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